February 3, 2023

Met Gala 2022: Everything you need to know about the ‘Gilded Glamour’ theme

5 min read

written by Jackie Palmbo

When celebrities hit the red carpet at the Met Gala on May 2, there will probably be no shortage of corset buns and bustle.

This is because the dress code for this year’s event, hosted by the Metropolitan Museum of the Arts Costume Institute, is “Guilded Glamor and White Tie”, referring to the glorious era of American fashion in the last decades of the 19th century. Industrialization rapidly increased fashion. The difference in the wealth of the country

This is the second part of the Matt Gala Costume Institute exhibition. “In America: An Anthology of FashionWhich opened last September and guided the costumes of previous events. And while A-list participants seem to have a certain degree of flexibility when interpreting the theme. Said Kim Kardashian (when she took the form of Black Spectral Balenciaga on the red carpet), this prompt will give guests the opportunity to fulfill their most declining desires.

“It’s very elegant, very exaggerated, very artificial,” fashion historian and curator Kate Strasden said in a video interview about the Guild Age style. “It simply came to our notice then.

House of Worth evening dress and ball gown, the first French couture salon to set up shop and influence American fashion from abroad.

House of Worth evening dress and ball gown, the first French couture salon to set up shop and influence American fashion from abroad. Credit: Metropolitan Museum of Art

The Guild Age was a 30-year period during which industrialists and real estate experts saw their fortunes rise to astonishing heights thanks to the rapid expansion of trains, factories and urban centers. Famous family names, including Frick, Astor, Carnegie, Rockefeller, and Vanderbilt formed the country’s infrastructure, and socialists of the time, including Caroline Schermerhorn Astor and Alva Vanderbilt, ruled New York society.

For the elite, fashion became more and more popular, with lace and crystal cuts and even bird feathers – in those days Milner used so many feathers, feathers and stuffed dead birds in his hats that Formed the Adobe Society. Birds, in 1895, According to To the organization. Underneath their dreadlocks, American women wore intricate undergarments, including corsets, padded shoulder cushions, stir pads, cranolins (a form of structured petticoat), and even steel goggles to get the right shape. Wear for, although the sleeves were finally easy. The men’s clothing of the century was also very formal, the new popular tuxedo became the standard clothing for high-flying gentlemen in the 1880s.
Corsets have been on the red carpet for the past year, laying the groundwork for the Met Gala.

Corsets have been on the red carpet for the past year, laying the groundwork for the Met Gala. Credit: Amy Susman / Getty Images

With a focus on American designers at the gala, some of them will undoubtedly add to the glory of the challenge, such as Jeremy Scott of Moshino, whose historical references include sending 18th-century pineapples to the runway. Celebrities can also call Christian Seriano or Pierre Moss for their over-the-top, highly structured outfits, or look across the pool at the designs of vintage Alexander McQueen who nodded for the occasion. Such as cranial craniolins. With Olivia Rodrigo, Doja Kate and Dua Lipa, the corsets have already hit the red carpet. Everyone is playing them In the Grammys last month.

Status Symbols

During the Gold Age, you were what you wore, as Strasden noted, at a time when branding fashion houses was a new concept. Many American women at the time bought dresses to protect their status from Paris from Hewitt Couture’s pioneers: Charles Worth, Jack Dositt, Paul Poirier, and Madame Jean-Pakin. Show modern design.

According to Strasdin, American garment makers will not have a moment until World War I disrupted the supply of European goods to the United States.

“American women really have to travel there, so it’s the first sign of a lot of wealth – getting yourself there for real stuff,” she said. “Then it’s like being the ones influencing Instagram now – (women) will come back with clothes that people knew they bought in Paris.”

It features Alice Kelly Poole Vanderbilt "Electric light" Gown (left) and Alva Vanderbilt in their clothing "Venetian Renaissance Lady" Vanderbilt on the ball (right)

Alice Clapol Vanderbilt in her “Electric Light” gown (left) and Alva Vanderbilt in Vanderbilt Ball (right) in her “Venetian Renaissance Lady” dress. Credit: Jose Maria Mora (2)

At a time when the “old money” mocked the “novo money”, like the newly accumulated railway of the Vanderbiltes, fortunately, it was necessary to integrate well with European culture. When Alva Vanderbilt, in the hope of being accepted into the higher echelons of society, threw up her newly completed 19th century mansion, named Petit Chatto, the pictures show that she He wore a large Venetian-style gown aimed at imitating Renaissance fashion. . Meanwhile, her sister-in-law, Alice, wore a show-stopping gown that “Electric lightCharles Worth’s Salon House of Worth dress. He paired the figure with a handheld flashlight, which he lifted above his head in a picture resembling a statue of freedom.

“The gown itself had all kinds of jewelry designed to capture the light,” Strauss-Kahn said. “And then he had an electric flashlight that was really the latest. It went down in history as one of the most famous clothes of that era.”

Corset wars.

But even as the fashion pendulum leaned towards formal and wide, the underground aesthetic movement began to urge women to dispose of their corsets, retreating against the social conventions of the industrial age in the 1870s. Its bohemian female members donated loose-fitting “artistic” clothing to the public that was considered shocking for its association with undergarments. (Like Oscar Wilde, male aesthetics were despised for their so-called feminine rhetoric.)

HBO's Gold Age

HBO’s Gold Age Credit: Allison Cohen Rosa / HBO

Although the movement did not make major changes to the rules of public dress for women, these salutes reached the private homes of somewhat wealthy women. Enter into the romantic casual attire included in the “tea gown” – a broad prelude to the 2020 viral “nap dress” – although, according to Strasdin, many tea gowns are still “strong” under the clothes. Hide the bone bra. Adelaide Freak, wife of industrialist and art collector Henry Clay Freck, lives in The Freak, Pittsburgh.

The tumultuous servile history of the era had already gained some traction earlier this year with the series “The Guilded Age”, which debuted last January on HBO (owned by CNN’s parent company Warner Bros. Discovery). Was The show follows two young women who are entangled in the life of New York society in the changing landscape of old money and new ones. The show has seemed a bit unfocused in recent episodes, with lead costume designer Cassia Vallika-Maimon tailoring actors Cynthia Nixon, Louisa Jacobson, Danny Benton and Carrie Cowan to suit their different social backgrounds and aspirations. told In a variety of January, his team was “lucky” to bring this era to the screen.

“It’s an age that gives us a lot to experience, and a lot to gain and a lot to play,” he said.

HBO's Gold Age

The Golden Age of HBO Credit: Allison Cohen Rosa / HBO

Attendees at this year’s Met Gala may not imitate the style of a century and a half ago, but Strauss-Kahn finds today’s theme appropriate for its echo, which includes rich socialites (who use the Internet instead of steel factories). Make a fortune using it). Modernization of fashion houses.

“Approval for all jewelry … and it would be great to see a celebration of this kind of exaggeration,” he said. “And all the excitement of color and shape.”

“And maybe some crazy hats.”

Top Picture: A still image from Martin Scorsese’s 1993 film “The Age of Innocence” set during the Guild Age.

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