February 3, 2023

Cicchetti: The story behind Venice’s famous bar snacks

7 min read

(CNN) – “Skate is the glue that holds Venus together,” says mask maker Sergio Boldrin. Bottega dei Mascareri. “It’s impossible to think about finishing work without stopping for a drink and breakfast on the way home, meeting friends, catching the day’s news.”

Ask a Venetian to compliment cicchetti and you will get as many answers as there are types of delicious finger food. In a town on foot or by boat, a glass of wine is called ombra while clicking on the cicchetti, and chatting with friends at a bar called Bicaro is an integral part of life in Venice.

Cicchetti can include everything from squiggly sea creatures on a toothpick, to fried meatballs called polypets, to colorful toppings spread on pieces of baguette called croissants – and this is for beginners only. Traditionally, you eat them at a bar, or just outside the door. Drinks and snacks are key in the reception environment – not street food eaten while strolling around town.

Cicchetti is cheaper, the price of which depends on the ingredients, about – 1- € 5 ($ 1.10- $ 5.50). Each cicchetto is as creative as the person who invented it, the Giro de Ombrey – an idle crawl – gives the opportunity to taste the spirit of Venice.

Like many Venetian traditions, the use of the original cicchetti natives has changed over the decades, but the ritual remains the same. The word “ombra” in Italian means shade or shade. “ombre” is plural. According to legend, centuries ago vendors sold wine in St. Mark’s Square, after the shadow of the Campanile (giant Bell Tower) with their vehicles to keep the wine cool. Result? The expression “un’ombra di vino” or “shade of wine.”

Venetians do not like to drink on an empty stomach, so “cichéti” was born, which is thought to have come from the Latin “ciccus” which means “small quantity”. Early offerings were simple loaves such as a boiled octopus or hard boiled egg with anchovy on top. The so-called “Bakari” institutions, devoted to the service of Umbri and Sechetti, are said to have been inspired by an old Venetian expression, “far Bakara” or “to celebrate” – a term that is itself a Roman deity of wine and pleasure. Will be made from Bacchus. .

At Rialto, the one-time capital of international trade at the foot of the world-famous bridge, merchants set up their businesses in the shadow of the Church of San Giacomo di Rialto (locally known as San Giacomo) in Banco Giro. Also, a circulating credit bank. Sechetti was a type of fast food washed with ombre that merchants ate to get the business done quickly and stand on their own two feet when there was no time to lose. Or the story goes.

Tuna and Coco Seachetti

Stanley went to Tucci in search of cicchetti "Searching for Italy."

Stanley Tucci went in search of cicchetti in “Searching for Italy”.


A glass display case filled with a kaleidoscope of baguettes cut with exotic toppings شیاوی Also known as the “Botigon” in the Dorsoduro District, the bar began its life as a bar in the late 19th century. In addition to dozens of fresh cicchetti, it serves about 25 wines through the glass, as well as hundreds of bottles from the Veneto area, including wine from local elite properties. You’ll find owner Alessandra de Response behind the counter every morning, chatting with her customers as she prepares her delicious snacks.

When de Response’s father-in-law, Sisto Gastaldi, took over Bacaro in 1945, there was plenty of ombre, but only pickled onions were offered, which included anchovies, mortadella and green peppers, and hard-boiled eggs. De Response began working in Chesapeake after Cisto’s death in 1970, and her husband, Leno Gastaldi, stepped into her father’s shoes. Expanding Shivi’s secret menu became his life’s mission and he started inventing his own delicacies with wine glasses.

De Respons cut fresh, crispy baguettes into bite-sized pieces that you can eat with two fingers. Tuna and Lake, and Gorgonzola and Walnut topped his list of early creations. As soon as he found his rhythm, his imagination was aroused by seasonal elements. He experimented with mixing and matching colors and flavors, inventing a new savory food eaten by the locals.

Now in the seventies, De Response has a team of children who provide support, but she still works every day until noon. He has created about 70 different properties, including his award-winning tartere di tono e cocoa: tuna is mixed with egg yolk, capers, mayonnaise and parsley, then sprinkled with bitter cocoa.

“My goal is always to serve fresh food,” says De Response. “At the end of the day, we offer whatever is left over to the end customers, or eat it ourselves.”

‘Cicchetti was polite food’

The modern cicchetti - a layered baguette slice with toppings - is thought to have been invented by Alessandra de Responses.

The modern cicchetti – a layered baguette slice with toppings – is thought to have been invented by Alessandra de Responses.


“Venice is no longer a reality!” Greg 73-year-old Franco Felipe. “The last real Bakaro closed in 1980.”

Filippi owns Libreria Editrice Filippi, a bookstore that specializes in all things Venetian and is the city’s oldest publishing house. He can trace his family’s roots to Venice in 1340. He has no television and has spent 40 years trying to understand the mysterious Renaissance book “Hypnerotomachia Poliphili” published by Aldo Manuzio in Venice in 1499. The great thinker of centuries.

Philippi is an old-fashioned purist when it comes to secrecy. In fact, he has recently published a book by Sandro Brandolisio entitled “Cichéti” (spelled Venetian), which contains recipes that the bakery developed in the 1950s and ’60s.

“Skate was a decent dish made from spenza, fried, or trypa resa, trapeze – no part of the animal was lost,” says Philippe. “It was made by the wife and sold by the husband and son. When we went to Giro d’Ombre, it was because Maria made the best meatballs on Tuesday, and Sofia made the best octopus on Wednesday. But all that nonsense is over. ”

Today there are hundreds of places to eat in Venice and the scatterings in Austria, but Philippe is irresistible. “Crostini – Spreading toppings on a piece of bread – is not Chetti!”

Where (and) aunty to eat

Today, there are thousands of cicchetti on offer.

Today, there are thousands of cicchetti on offer.


Keep wandering through the black on the west side of the Rialto Bridge in the San Polo District, and you’ll stumble upon many good goats that offer a variety of secrets in different incarnations. Despite Philippi’s announcements, Kristini is everywhere, and it seems that Alessandra de Response’s recipes in Chiavi may have encouraged many idiots to follow her lead, creating pieces of baguette with creative inventions. Decorates.

Little one All’Arco Always jammed with locals. Walking in the background is the music of the random sounds of Venice, which flows like a pool of water in the lake. There are dozens of fresh crustaceans constantly changing depending on the season, from prawns to prostitutes and everything in between, as well as small tables outside to enjoy them.
Cantina do Speed Has been since 1488 and was one of Casanova’s oldest residences – in Chapter 17 of her erotic memoirs, in “A Story of My Life” she tells the story of how she and her Seven friends seduce a young married woman from behind. Dow Speed ​​Room during the 1745 Carnival. You can join in the call for meatballs or grilled squads, or sit down to eat at the wooden tables inside.

On the next street is the even older Cantina du Mori, founded in 1462, which also claims Casanova to be a former regular. Here you will find a local Venetian crowd and people doing business in the area with a lot of tourists, and there is no place to sit except for a handful of toilets. The dark interior of the wood reflects the antiquity, offering a good selection of classic saccharin and wine.

According to tradition, Venus was born on the afternoon of March 25, 421 AD, at the foot of the Rialto Bridge in Campo San Giacomo. The five bistros – Osteria Banco Giro, Ancòra, Osteria Al Pesador, Caffè Vergnano 1882 Rialto and Naranzaria – share the same important location as a large living room, where you can stand in the campo and dine to one side. Or you can pay more to sit. Looking at one table and the Grand Canal on the other, they all offer different variations of cicchetti. Banco Giro has changed from a 17th-century bank to a 21st-century Osteria, and is featured with its home-made Bacla Monticato, a Venetian standard made from Norwegian stock fish, which is made into cream and Spread over crotch.

Michelin-starred Cecity

From gourmet or bar, cicchetti are made with love.

From gourmet or bar, cicchetti are made with love.


Local Restaurant Traditional Venetian food is to be promoted in the future. With her dedicated team, 36-year-old owner Benedita Flynn took Venetian cuisine to the level of a rock star and earned a McLean Star for the effort. The interior of the locale was hand-crafted by selected local artisans and offers a tasting menu only. But the menu, inspired by the availability of fresh, local ingredients, begins with the ever-changing cicchetti.

From the shades of the ancient Campanile, to the humble kitchens of the 1950s, to the inventive Christine of the 1970s, to the “New Venetian cuisine” of the 21st century, cicchetti has always evolved but they have one thing in common: Made by Venetians. With friendship and love

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